Japanese Grandma’s Cafe

By Anni Caporuscio

Poke Bowl. Japanese Grandma’s take on the Kaua‘i tradition contains sea asparagus, which gives it a natural salty, crispy bite. The ahi is mixed in a miso sauce, which gives it a creamy texture without mayo. Hiding underneath is a high-quality rice, Tamanishiki.

Japanese Grandma’s Cafe in Hanapepe Town is a super modern, clean-lined, bright storefront café with a surprising attention to subtleties of experience. Owner Keiko Napier is far from a tottering gray-haired grandma; she is stylish, energetic and intensely passionate about her café. In fact, “Japanese Grandma” is homage to her mother — that’s how Keiko’s sons called her mother. The café is reflective of being raised in the restaurant industry; Keiko’s father was a master Japanese chef who owned several restaurants. And Keiko herself is a fantastic advocate for real Japanese food.

The café focuses on small dishes that are plain, yet shining with a complexity of flavors. The recipes seek to honor the ingredients available to Kaua‘i while keeping true to their Tokyo origins. They focus on the simple and the consistent; and their attention to detail presents a superb result. Tiny details such as how to wash the rice so it naturally forms to its intended purpose. How to age the fish so that its muscles relax and its natural flavors rise. Rolling a sushi roll without compacting it, rather creating a soft and fluffy feel. Adjusting tempura batter for the humidity to keep it crispy and light. Making in-house sauces meant to flavor and compliment the dish, not merely to salt it.

Tempura, a delightful mix of veggies and shrimp. The batter is crisp and light, no oiliness. This basket of veggies made me feel good to eat it.

I am deeply impressed with this café. It stands out for quality and ingenuity of experience. It made me realize my sole knowledge of Japanese cuisine has been imprinted with the Kaua‘i-local traditions, which have in turn developed with their own unique and special history, fusing with Portuguese and traditional Hawaiian flavors. I ate Halibut Usuzukuri, which is a slice of fish thinner than my familiar sashimi. I ate a spicy tuna roll in which the spice snuck up on me and the rice was not the predominant feature. My knowledge has expanded to the house-made sauces that are simple creations in their own right, while being low in sodium and low in sugar.

Keiko is very active in the Hanapepe food community, sponsoring the event Flavors of Hanapepe, which will give participants the food and cultural experiences of Old Historic Hanapepe. She also works tirelessly at supporting local businesses bringing vitality to Hanapepe Town. Visit her at the adjoining boutique, Blu-Umi.

Japanese Grandma’s Cafe is open daily for lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., and Thursday to Monday for dinner from 5:30 to 9 p.m. Dinner leans toward a shareable tapas menu.

Call 855-5016 or visit japanesegrandma.com for more information, including special events and catering in their gorgeous backyard. They are at 3871 Hanapepe Rd.

• Anni Caporuscio is a food lover and can be found daily at her Kapa‘a business, Small Town Coffee.

Japanese Grandma’s Cafe owner Keiko Napier was born in Tokyo and raised in Los Angeles, Calif. The daughter of a Japanese master chef, she’s got Japanese food in her heart and soul.

Matcha tea and lilikoi lemonade to accompany lunch and cleanse the palate.

Halibut Usuzukuri: thinly sliced halibut served with a puns sauce, thinner than I expected and not salty. Each slice is dabbed with a tiny citrus explosion that makes this light dish pop.

Halibut Usuzukuri: thinly sliced halibut served with a puns sauce, thinner than I expected and not salty. Each slice is dabbed with a tiny citrus explosion that makes this light dish pop.

The Sushi-rito, which is sushi plus burrito, is an ode to Californian fusion cuisine. This is larger than it looks and is a good lunch. This sushi-rito comes with eel, a sweet base for a burrito.

You can find this Makaweli Beef on the dinner menu. It is a French style of cooking, sous vie, which involves searing on the outside, and then cooked to medium temperature. The sauce is a teriyaki base with a slight citrus flavor to give you a range of sweet, tangy and savory all in one bite.

The Tonkatsu is marinated pork, fried with panic breading, then sliced. The breading is light and crispy without a hint of oil. Dipped in a housemate sauce it is delicate, not a word I usually assign to pork dishes.

The Spicy Tuna Roll is a Kaua‘i favorite. This one differs from other rolls; the spice rises while you eat it, the fish is very tender and the rice fluffy.

The Hamachi Nigiri is softer and quieter than what I have been accustomed to. In addition to a full menu of plates, tempura, bento, and other Japanese dishes, the cafe also hosts a full sushi bar.